The right line makes everything possible.
In
spin fishing the weight of the lure being cast pulls the monofilament
line off the reel. In fly fishing the weight of the fly line being cast
carries the fly to the fish. The fly line you cast and the way you cast
it creates the "presentation" of the fly. To catch fish you must
present your fly in the water column the way the fish expect to see
their foods. The right fly line makes that possible.

Fly line
Selecting
the right fly line will help you get to where the fish are. Your local
fly shop is the best place to get advice on fly lines, especially in
choosing the right line for your fishing needs. Nothing "sinks" a
fishing trip faster than arriving with the wrong fly lines for the
fishing situations.
Considerations when choosing a Fly Line
Shape and construction:
These determine how the line delivers the fly. In fly fishing you want
to deliver the fly where and how the fish expect to see their food. So,
you must choose the fly line that is designed with the proper length,
weight, taper, color, specific gravity and coating for the fishing you
want to do.
Length and Weight: A fly line's
weight is distributed throughout its length - from 90 to 105 feet or
more - but its weight designation (1- through 15-weight) is determined
by the weight of the front 30 feet of the fly line. Fly line weights
range from a 1-weight to a 15-weight.
Tapers: The
way fly lines shoot, turn over a heavy fly, present a small fly
delicately, or cast efficiently at long or short distances is through
the taper design. The fly line's taper (its outside dimension) is
designed by varying the thickness of the line coating. Notice the way
a fly line is described - tip, front taper, belly, rear taper, head and
running line. All these elements can be varied to change the casting
performance of the line. Fly lines are broken into five design
categories: the seldom-used level (L), the highly popular
weight-forward (WF), double-taper (DT), shooting-taper (ST), and
specialty tapers. The fly lines you will use the most are
weight-forward, double-taper and specialty.
Color:
Some fishermen prefer a brightly colored fly line so they can see where
their line is in the air and on the water. It helps them in casting and
in knowing where their fly is at all times. Others prefer fly lines
that blend in with whatever background they are fishing. Fish see
colors, they reason, so why spook them with colors they are not used to
seeing? You must decide what color fly line works best for you.
Coating:
Fly lines float because they are designed by the manufacturer with tiny
air bubbles in the line surface. If instead the manufacturer adds lead
or tungsten to the fly line's coating, the line will sink.
Fly
lines are constructed of a core, a taper design, and a coating (usually
polyvinylchloride). These basic elements are varied to make form follow
function. In other words, by changing the core, coating or tapers, the
manufacturer can make fly lines that perform best under any fishing
situation.
Sinking Fly Lines
Since more than 90 percent of
a fish's feeding occurs beneath the surface, you need fly lines that
get your fly down, sometimes slowly and at other times very fast.
Full-sinking
fly lines are best suited to fishing in still waters. They are designed
to get flies down to the level where the fish are feeding. So you need
to match the sink rate of the fly line to the fishing conditions.
Fly
lines that sink uniformly (evenly) or head first are the best lines to
use for fishing still waters (lakes and ponds), because they provide
better strike detection. Some sinking fly lines tend to belly in the
middle because they do not sink uniformly. The belly creates a
sensory disconnect between the fisherman and the fish, so the fisherman
fails to detect the strikes before the fish can reject the fly. The
uniform-sinking fly lines provide a straight-line connection to the fly,
allowing you to detect a high percentage of strikes and catch more
fish.
Sinking-tips (best used in moving water)
Sinking-tips
are sinking portions of fly line (usually 8 to 15 feet) connected to
the front of floating lines. They are excellent for shallow and deep
nymphing, for mending fly line to create a drag-free float, and for
turning over and sinking very large streamers in river-bank and pool
fishing.
Basic Gear Rules
To sum things up:
- For
the best advice and choices, buy your fly lines at a fly shop where you
can describe your fishing needs and receive the counsel of experienced
fishermen.
- The weight of your fly line must match your rod - 6-weight lines for 6-weight rods and so forth.
- The larger the fly, the larger the fly line (and fly rod) needed to cast it.
- Fishing
the water column from top to bottom requires both floating and sinking
fly lines. As water depth and flow increase, the heavier the sinking fly
lines you will need to penetrate it. If you cannot penetrate it to
where the fish lie (near bottom), you cannot present the fly in
the level at which they are feeding, and you will not catch them.
- Match the type of the fly line to the fishing conditions for which it is designed.
- Take care of your fly line, and it will take care of you.
If
you see a line marked "Trout," "Bass," "Bonefish," "Big Game" or the
like, you know that it is designed for that species. Fly line
designations are indicated on the side of the manufacturer's packages as
in these examples: "WF8F" means weight-forward, 8-weight, floating;
or "Wet Tip V 13'" means sinking-tip, very fast sinking, 13-foot tip).
Then the length of the fly line is given: 90ft./30 yd./27.4m. Each tells
you something important about the function of the fly line.
Fly Line Care
Fly
lines should be washed in mild soap and water and wiped dry or cleaned
with a line cleaner after use, because they accumulate dirt and algae on
their surface, making casting difficult and floating fly lines sink.
After
cleaning, allow the fly line to dry in the shade (ultraviolet light
from the sun destroys the chemicals in a line), or wipe the fly line dry
and dress it with lubricant provided by the manufacturer or with
Armor-All. Some newer fly lines require less dressing because they
have lubricants in the line coating that gradually weep toward the
surface.
When you are not fishing the fly line, detach the fly and
wind the line onto the reel until your next trip. Long storage on a
reel can create reel-coils in the fly line, but to remove the coils you
just need to stretch or cast the line.
At the end of the season clean your fly lines thoroughly and wind them back onto their original line spools.
Always
keep your fly lines stored out of direct sunlight. The sun's
ultraviolet rays and high heat (a hot car trunk, for example) can cause
the coating chemicals on the fly line to deteriorate quickly. With
proper care your fly lines should last from three to five years under
normal use.